About Gems
A gemstone must meet three criteria: it must be rare, durable and beautiful.
We have been studying stones for 23 years and we know this market inside and out
We understand the origin and nature of a stone
We know all the subtleties of processing and cutting
Yellow Diamond
Paraiba tourmaline
Emerald
Sapphire
My name is Daria, I am the leading gemologist at Parure
I will tell you how to choose a stone that your descendants will pass down from generation to generation
Yellow Diamond
Colorless diamonds are a classic, but colored diamonds are becoming more popular every year. Yellow diamonds are of particular interest. What affects their value? As with colorless diamonds, the price is determined by the weight, color, and clarity of the stone.
The weight
The weight of diamonds is measured in carats. 1 carat — 0.20 grams. The greater the weight of a diamond, the higher its price, but other indicators also affect the cost. For example, a 1-carat diamond with an average color and clarity will cost less than a 0.90-carat diamond with top quality indicators.
Diamonds over 1 carat are so rare that if you collect all the diamonds in this weight category, found around the world within a year, they will only fill a tennis ball.
Color
The color of yellow diamonds is of great importance in the formation of value. The color saturation of yellow diamonds in most cases depends on the amount of nitrogen. The more nitrogen, the brighter and richer the color of the diamond.
GIA designates the lightest shades of yellow diamonds with the letters of the Latin alphabet U-V, W-X, Y-Z. Such colors are also called "fancy".
The closer to the end of the alphabet, the brighter the color of the stone, but in practice it is difficult to distinguish between these shades (especially in the finished jewelry). Diamonds with fancy colors are more affordable than stones with high color saturation.
Paraiba tourmaline
The world has known about the Paraiba tourmaline since the end of the 20th century, but the stone already has many admirers. For the first time, a neon-colored tourmaline deposit was discovered in 1987 in the Brazilian state of Paraiba, so the stone was named after this place. The amazing mineral got its color due to the significant amount of copper in its composition. It is the amount of copper that determines the hue of tourmaline (shades of blue, blue-green, aqua) and color saturation, as well as the “signature” neon glow, especially noticeable in a daylight.
Prices
Prices for Paraiba tourmaline continued to rise, it was incredibly difficult to acquire a stone, but in 2001 a sensation occurred in the world of colored stones — a deposit of tourmalines with a neon glow was discovered in Nigeria, and in 2005 another deposit was found in Mozambique. Collectors were particularly pleased by the fact that African tourmalines were distinguished by their large size (tourmalines weighing more than 40 carats are mined in Africa).
How could deposits of such an unusual stone be on different continents? The answer lies in the history of our planet. Paraiba tourmaline deposits were formed about 500-300 million years ago. At this time, the territories of modern Brazil, Nigeria and Mozambique were on the same supercontinent, which was called Gondwana.
What affects the cost?
The main thing is the color! The brighter and richer the color of the stone, the more neon glow — the more expensive.
Clarity. Transparent Paraiba tourmalines are more expensive than tourmalines with a lot of inclusions, which are often called "sugar".
Deposits. Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines are so rare that it automatically increases the value of the stone.
The weight. Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines rise in price when they weigh more than 3 carats. Among the African Paraiba tourmalines there are also real giants (from 50 carats and above), of course, and their weight affects the cost per carat. Are Paraiba tourmalines being ennobled? Yes, 99% of tourmalines (both from Brazil and Africa) are heated at a temperature of °C 500-550. This refinement enhances the color of the Paraiba tourmaline. Parure Atelier works directly with the Paraiba tourmaline deposit in Africa, so there are always specimens in the collection of stones.
Emerald
From the mineralogy point of view, emerald is a variety of beryl that has a green color. Chromium, iron and vanadium elements are responsible for the color of emeralds. Depending on the combination of these elements, emeralds have a cool blue or warm yellow undertone.
What affects the cost?
The main thing is color! The brighter and richer the color of the stone is, the higher its value. The most valuable and expensive color is vivid green, as such emeralds are very rare. Green and pastel green colors are very popular.
Clarity. Unlike diamonds, emeralds do not have a single international system for assessing the clarity of a stone. Natural emeralds almost always have inclusions, this is due to the natural conditions of crystal formation. Stones with a minimum number of inclusions that do not affect the play of color and beauty of the stone are valued higher.
Refinement. Most natural emeralds (regardless of color saturation or deposit) on the international market are ennobled. The practice of oiling emeralds is centuries old, as precious stones were already processed in Ancient Egypt and Ancient Rome.
To date, there are several key categories of emerald oiling. Insignificant, minor, minor-to-moderate, moderate, prominent. The less refined the emerald, the higher its value. The rarest and most valuable are emeralds without refinement (no oil), which make up no more than 0.5% of all emeralds on the market, and their price will be much higher.
Another important factor affecting the cost of an emerald is the deposit. Emerald deposits are located on almost all continents, but the main production today is carried out in Colombia and Zambia. Another well-known emerald deposit is, of course, the Urals.
Emeralds from Colombia are considered more valuable and desirable. Stones from Zambia with equal characteristics will be more affordable, since the history of deposits in Africa has lasted decades, not centuries like those in Colombia. Rare emeralds mined in the Urals, Pakistan, and Ethiopia are also highly valued.
The Parure Atelier emerald collection includes stones from three key deposits (Columbia, Zambia, the Urals) with different weights and characteristics. But as we work directly with the deposits, our gemologists will be able to find emeralds from other places according to your personal order.
Sapphire
Sapphire is one of the most famous stones in the world, one of the “big three” colored precious stones. Mineralogically speaking, sapphire is a precious variety of the corundum mineral. The most common color of sapphire is blue, but there are also pink, yellow, orange, purple and even green sapphires. Sapphire has a hardness rating of 9 out of 10 on the Mohs scale, so sapphire jewelry is suitable for daily wear. For example, a sapphire ring is often chosen as an engagement ring.
What affects the cost?
The weight. The more a sapphire weighs, the higher its value will be. There are a sufficient number of sapphires in the range of 1-5 carats on the international market, however, specimens from 5 carats are mined significantly less, so the cost per carat increases when this weight threshold is reached. Stones weighing more than 10 carats are usually rare and unique.
Color. The color palette of natural sapphires is extensive, there are both gentle pastel blue and more saturated, juicy shades of blue. The brighter and deeper the color of the stone, the higher its value.
The most rare and valuable are cornflower blue and royal blue, as well as the rarest padparadscha sapphire (such a sapphire has both pink and orange hues).
Clarity. The presence of inclusions is typical for sapphires, in some instances it even increases the cost (for example, if we are talking about rutile inclusions that create a “velvety” effect, or form a star pattern on the surface of the stone). Absolutely pure sapphires are rare, and, of course, their value will be higher. It is important to note that the presence of inclusions that do not adversely affect the color play of sapphire do not reduce the price of the stone.
Refinement. Most of the sapphires on the market are thermally refined. Depending on the temperature and the source material, this refining can improve both the color and clarity of the stone. Unheated sapphires are much more expensive than ennobled sapphires, as they are very rare. Refinement combining heat treatment and diffusion is distinguished separately; such sapphires are valued much lower; the Parure Atelier does not use such stones.
Deposits. The most famous sapphire deposits on the market today are Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and Burma (Myanmar). In the last quarter of the last century, African sapphires mined in Madagascar, Nigeria and Tanzania also began to gain popularity. Among other well-known deposits are Australia, Cambodia, Thailand, USA.
As a rule, Ceylon and Burmese sapphires are more expensive than sapphires with similar characteristics from African deposits, although the stones may not differ visually from each other.
Parure's collection of stones includes sapphires of different carats and characteristics. Our gemologists work directly with the deposits, so we can find a stone for you, taking into account your wishes in terms of quality and budget.