The snakeA massive gold snake bracelet is an ode to sensuality, luxury and wisdom. It is these qualities that are attributed to an elegant reptile.
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My name is Daria, I’m the lead gemologist at Parure Atelier
«I’ll tell you how to choose a stone that your descendants will pass down from generation to generation»
Colorless Diamond
Seeking perfection in its purest form? Colorless diamonds — it’s flawless beauty, stable investments and the highest liquidity among precious stones in the global market.
4C parameters
Color
Color
Clarity
Clarity
Cut
Cut
Carat Weight
Carat weight
A parameter that grades diamonds on a color scale from colorless to light yellow.
The degree of visibility of inclusions and defects in the stone.
A characteristic, the quality and type of which determines the brilliance and fire of the diamond.
Carat — a unit of mass for precious stones.
Diamond cuts
round
pear
oval
marquise
heart
cushion
×
baguette
emerald
princess
asscher
radiant
Gemologist’s advice
«Diamonds of the same weight can appear larger or smaller in size depending on the cut shape. For example, a pear-cut or oval-cut stone looks larger than a cushion cut.»
Carat weight
Carat is a unit of weight measurement, not the size of a gemstone.
0.18
3.5 mm
0.25
4.1 mm
0.50
5.1 mm
0.75
5.7 mm
1.00
6.5 mm
Carob seed
6.5 mm
1.50
7.3 mm
2.00
8.2 mm
2.50
8.8 mm
2.99
9.4 mm
Carob seed
6.5 mm
Gemologist’s advice
«There are diamonds that professionals call big face. They appear larger when viewed from the front than other stones of the same weight. However, if the stone is too flat, then due to its distorted proportions, it won’t have that coveted diamond fire.»
diamond clarity grades according to GIA system
Flawless (FL)
Internally flawless (IF)
Very very slightly included (VVS1, VVS2)
Very slightly included (VS1, VS2)
Slightly included (Sl1, Sl2)
Included (I1, I2, I3)
Gemologist’s advice
«Diamonds are evaluated very strictly on this parameter, with very high purity requirements. Even an experienced specialist cannot distinguish a VS1 stone from an IF stone with the naked eye without tenfold magnification.
Stones from FL to VS2 are visually clean without using an instrument. Sometimes there are SI1 stones with no obviously noticeable inclusions. It’s possible to select an SI1 stone with inclusions on the periphery, closer to the edge of the stone, or with colorless inclusions in any zone of the stone.»
diamond color grading categories according to GIA system
Colorless D - E - F
Near Colorless G - H - I - J
Faint Yellow K - L - M
Very Light Yellow N - R
Light Yellow S - Z
Gemologist’s advice
«D, E, and F stones are considered “colorless”, as the D characteristic denotes an absolutely colorless diamond, while E and F have a tint only from the pavilion side (lower part of the stone) on special white paper under specific lighting. The difference between these colors is practically indistinguishable in jewelry. When grading a stone that is already set, reputable laboratories usually don’t assign a color higher than F for this very reason.»
«Colors G-J are near-colorless. In most cases, stones with these characteristics are chosen for jewelry as a compromise between cost and color. Strong blue fluorescence masks the yellow tint in such stones.»
«Colors U-Z with a noticeable yellow tint should be highlighted separately. Stones that are more saturated in color than Z are considered Fancy Light Yellow — that is, fancy diamonds, and they are more expensive. When properly set, their hue appears more saturated — for example, in yellow gold settings.»
Colorless diamonds are classic, but colored ones are becoming more popular every year. Of particular interest are yellow diamonds. What affects their value? As with colorless diamonds, the price is determined by the weight, color, and clarity of the stone.
Yellow diamonds are mined worldwide. However, deep yellow diamonds are primarily found in South Africa.
Diamond color grading categories according to GIA system
Fancy Light
Fancy
Fancy Intense
Fancy Vivid
Fancy Dark
Fancy Deep
Fancy yellow diamonds are divided into 6 color categories: Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Dark, Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid, the latter being the most highly valued. Of all diamonds submitted for GIA certification, only 3% are colored, and Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds make up 5% of all yellow specimens.
Gemologist’s advice
“The right setting (e.g., yellow gold mountings) intensifies the hue.”
The color of yellow diamonds is of great importance in determining their value.
The color saturation of yellow diamonds in most cases depends on the amount of nitrogen. The more nitrogen — the brighter and more vivid the color of the diamond will be.
Gemologist’s advice
«There are diamonds that professionals call big face. They appear larger when viewed from the front than other stones of the same weight. However, if the stone is too flat, then due to its distorted proportions, it won’t have that coveted diamond fire.»
My name is Yunna, I’m a gemologist and curator of the Parure Atelier jewelry production in Bangkok.
«I’ll tell you how to choose a stone that your descendants will pass down from generation to generation»
Paraiba Tourmaline
Neon sensation of the jewelry world: a gemstone with an incomparable hue, rapidly increasing value, and a bright future.
What affects the value? Color
Brazil Neon Color
Greenish Blue Color
Bluish Green Color
Green Color
The more intense and saturated the color of the stone, the more neon glow it has – the more expensive it is. This extraordinary mineral owes its color to the presence of copper within the structure. The copper concentration affects the hue (blue, blue-green, sea-green) and the saturation level, as well as the signature neon glow, especially noticeable in daylight.
Clarity
20.66 ct Paraiba Tourmaline, Mozambique
15.72 ct Paraiba Tourmaline, Mozambique
Transparent Paraiba tourmalines are more expensive than tourmalines with a large number of inclusions, which are often called “sugar-like” or “sugary”.
Deposit
The first deposit of tourmaline with a neon color was discovered in 1987 in the Brazilian state of Paraiba, and the tourmaline was named after its place of origin. Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines are so rare that this automatically increases the value of the stone. In Africa, copper-bearing tourmalines were discovered just a few years after the Brazilian discovery. In 2001, raw material with a neon glow began to come from Nigeria, and in 2005, production
Weight
Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines sharply increase in price if their weight exceeds 3 carats. Among African Paraiba tourmalines, there are true giants (from 50 carats and above), and of course, their weight also affects the price per carat.
Gemologist’s comment
“Are Paraíba tourmalines treated? Yes, 99% of stones (both from Brazil and Africa) are heated at 500-550 °C. This process enhances the gem’s color. Parure Atelier directly sources stones from the African Paraíba tourmaline deposit, ensuring that a wide selection is consistently maintained in stock.”
Prices
Brazil auction statistics
2003
Paraiba tourmaline ring 8.90 carats, Brazil Price $30,000 per carat
2018
Paraiba tourmaline ring 3.49 carats, Brazil Price $37,000 per carat
2019
Paraiba tourmaline ring 3.78 carats, Brazil Price around $96,000
2020
Paraiba tourmaline earrings 2.59 and 2.32 carats, Brazil Price $82,000 per carat
2021
Paraiba tourmaline ring 4.47 carats, Brazil Price $86,000 per carat
2021
Paraiba tourmaline necklace 10.31 carats, Brazil Price $500-700,000
2021
Paraiba tourmaline ring 4.06 carats, Brazil Price $75,500 per carat
2022
Paraiba tourmaline ring 5.09 carats, Brazil Price $74,000 per carat
2022
Paraiba tourmaline necklace 10.31 carats, Brazil Price $116,000 per carat
*according to Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Bonhams
The Paraíba tourmaline prices increased rapidly, making acquiring this gemstone rather challenging. However, in 2001, good news thrilled the gemstone world — a neon tourmaline deposit was discovered in Nigeria, and another deposit was found in Mozambique in 2005. Collectors were particularly pleased by the fact that African tourmalines tend to be larger. Some specimens weigh over 40 carats.
How could such an unusual gemstone be found on different continents? The explanation lies in the history of our planet. Paraíba tourmaline deposits formed about 500-300 million years ago. During that era, the territories of present-day Brazil, Nigeria, and Mozambique were all part of a single supercontinent called Gondwana.
Mozambique auction statistics
2007
Ring with Paraiba tourmaline 17.49 carats, Mozambique/Nigeria Price $8,300 per carat
2008
Ring with Paraiba tourmalines 15.73, Mozambique Price $11,000 per carat
2021
Ring with Paraiba tourmaline 11.31, Mozambique Price $12,000 per carat
2022
Ring with Paraiba tourmaline 10.13 carats, Nigeria Price $23,000 per carat
2023
Ring with Paraiba tourmaline 9.27 carats, Mozambique Price $42,000 per carat
A legendary stone that has conquered the hearts of the most famous women in history with its evergreen beauty. The fame of emeralds has not faded for centuries, captivating more and more connoisseurs of jewelry art.
What affects the value? Color
Vivid Green
Green
Pastel Green
The brighter and more saturated the color of the stone, the higher its value. The most valuable and expensive color is vivid green, such emeralds are very rare. Green and pastel green colors are also very popular.
Clarity
Unlike diamonds, emeralds do not have a unified international system for evaluating the clarity of the stone. Natural emeralds almost always have inclusions, which is due to the conditions of crystal formation in nature. Specimens with a minimal number of inclusions that do not affect the play of color and beauty of the stone are valued higher.
Treatment
Most natural emeralds (regardless of color or origin) in the global gemstones market are treated. Emerald oil treatment is a centuries-old practice. Precious stones were enhanced this way in Ancient Egypt and Ancient Rome.
GIA evaluates the degree of treatment according to the following system:
F1, or Minor
insignificant
F2, or Moderate
moderate
F3, or Significant
significant
Gemologist’s comment
«The rarest and most valuable emeralds are considered to be those without treatment (no oil), they make up no more than 0.5% of all emeralds available on the market, and their price will be significantly higher.»
Deposit
Emerald deposits are found on almost all continents, however, the main mining today is carried out in Colombia and Zambia. Another famous emerald deposit is, of course, the Urals. Emeralds from Colombia are considered more valuable and desirable, with equal characteristics stones from Zambia will be more affordable, since the history of deposits in Africa spans decades, not centuries, unlike Colombia. Rare emeralds mined in the Urals, Pakistan, and Ethiopia are also highly valued.
Emerald deposits are found on almost all continents, however, the main mining today is carried out in Colombia and Zambia. Another famous emerald deposit is, of course, the Urals. Emeralds from Colombia are considered more valuable and desirable, with equal characteristics stones from Zambia will be more affordable, since the history of deposits in Africa spans decades, not centuries, unlike Colombia. Rare emeralds mined in the Urals, Pakistan, and Ethiopia are also highly valued.
A truly royal stone with a rich history, delightful palette of shades, and impressive durability. Its noble luster, hypnotically beautiful colors, and consistently high value have elevated it to the top of the precious Olympus.
What affects the value? Color
Lilac
Pastel
Cornflower
Mekong Whisky
Hot Pink
Royal
Indigo
Fuchsia
Teal
Pastel
Padparadscha
The shade of the sapphire is the main factor when choosing a stone. The brighter and more intense it is, the more expensive.
*Lotus Gemology
Gemologist’s comment
«Among blue sapphires, the most valuable are Vivid Blue, for example, cornflower blue – a bright shade comparable to field flowers, as well as Royal Blue – rich and deep. It’s a matter of taste: some prefer a brighter color, others a deeper one, and some prefer pastel blue colors altogether.»
Deposit
The most famous sapphire deposits currently represented in the market are Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and Burma (Myanmar). In the last quarter of the previous century, African sapphires mined in Madagascar, Nigeria, and Tanzania began to gain popularity. Among other well-known deposits are Australia, Cambodia, Thailand, and the USA. Padparadscha stones are also brought from Tanzania. A beautiful stone of premium quality can be mined in any deposit. Each has its own characteristics.
Padparadscha are the most sought-after fancy sapphires. Their color is orange-pink or pink-orange. One hue may slightly predominate over the other, based on which GRS may classify it as “Sunset” (more orange) or “Sunrise” type (more pink).
Rare sapphires
Padparadscha Sapphire Sunrise
Padparadscha Sapphire Sunset
Regarding yellow, green, and pink sapphires, the intensity of the shade is what matters.
Deposit
Among fancy sapphires, the most highly valued are padparadscha with an orange-pink or pink-orange hue. One color may slightly predominate over the other, based on which GRS may classify it as Sunset type (more orange) or Sunrise type (more pink).
Clarity
Sapphire 14.45 ct
The presence of inclusions is characteristic for sapphires, in some specimens it even increases the value (for example, if we’re talking about rutile inclusions creating a “velvety” effect, or forming a star pattern on the surface of the stone). Absolutely clean sapphires are rare, and, of course, their cost will be higher.
Sapphire 14.45 ct
Gemologist’s comment
«It’s important to note that the presence of inclusions that do not negatively affect the play of color in the sapphire is not a factor that reduces the price of the stone.»
Treatment
Most sapphires available on the gemstone market are heated. Depending on the temperature and initial condition, such treatment can improve both color and clarity. Unheated sapphires are very rare and way more expensive than heated ones. Lattice diffusion is another treatment method that diminishes value. Parure Atelier refrains from using diffused gemstones.
Gemologist’s comment
«As a rule, Ceylon and Burmese sapphires are more expensive than sapphires with similar characteristics from African deposits, although visually the stones may not differ from each other.»
Weight
The heavier the sapphire, the higher its value. Sapphires in the 1-5 carat range are abundant on the international market, but specimens over 5 carats are mined much less frequently, so the price per carat increases significantly upon reaching this weight threshold. Stones weighing more than 10 carats are usually a unique story.
Congratulations, you have thoroughly studied our encyclopedia.
In the meantime, we invite you to immerse yourself in the world of gemological certificates. The knowledge you gain will definitely come in handy when creating jewelry pieces for your jewelry box!